Posts Tagged ‘synesso’

Is jimseven.com dead?

Tuesday, October 14th, 2008

I love a dramatic title…. However, the question remains valid! I have barely posted in the last three months, and I can’t just place the blame on Square Mile commitments. In truth lots of little things have contributed – no more internet at home, a broken macbook that I keep forgetting to buy a new battery for, and just having less time.

I remain a little torn about continuing this blog. There are a lot of things on my mind that I would like to put to a public forum, to discuss and perhaps even opinionate upon! However I have to acknowledge that my previous compulsion to blog has gone.

When I started this blog it was mostly because I was struggling to learn and develop and it was a way for me to advance my learning. Let me be clear here – I am not stopping writing because I think I know all I need to know. Quite the opposite – I am confronted with new challenges and opportunities to learn and develop every single day.

Still – there are a few things I want to post about and maybe get some discussion going on. This may turn into a very long post.

Coffee, Labels and Descriptions

I am going to start with labeling. Labels have been a bit of an issue for me since I started to have to write them. I felt it was very easy to slip into a formula, one created and maintained by the industry as a whole. I felt that I was writing very generic sentences, even though the descriptions were precise and accurate to the coffee (I hoped!).

So I started to look around for inspirations. I did have some reservations that we write descriptions like this because this is the best way for the public to receive the information we are trying to deliver, and that in stepping away I would break a line of communication. If anything this was only re-inforced when I looked at labeling in wine. Here was one industry that we are jealous of, in terms of increasing consumer awareness and (ultimately) spending. Wine labels are still very much the same. I didn’t find anything particularly inspiring or interesting there so I moved back to the web.

Tag clouds always appealed to me as a method of delivering weighted information. I felt that with espresso in particular labels needed to embrace the multitude of flavours coffee is capable of offering and how brewing can influence the cup and change the emphasis on particular tastes. The problem I had with tag clouds was that they are generally pretty ugly.

I am grateful to our designers for being patient with me as I demanded beautifully typeset tag clouds from them, and more grateful for the hard work they put in on their own time. I am delighted with the results, and I hope that customers respond to it. It is by no means perfect but if it works then it may be something worth developing. Right now we are only using this on our seasonal espresso labels because it is such a time consuming process to typeset everything.

square mile espresso

New Square Mile Autumn Espresso Label

I am curious as to how customer reaction will be, and I hope they like it!

French Press/Cafetiere/Plunger

I have never been more in love with this little brewer than I am now. I think anyone who is a coffee professional has been both saddened and heartened at the same time that just about everyone has one of these at home and most people rarely use them, and when they do – they use them badly.

french press

I love the Bodum 1 cup Columbia

We’ve been brewing the ‘Wendelboe’ way – there will be a short videocast of this very soon – and it is about as sludge free as it gets. And I hate sludge. I really do. I hate that when I get to that last mouthful, and the coffee is usually at a perfect temperature, that I am put off it by the fines lurking at the bottom of my cup. I hope to get my hands on a Mahlkoenig Vario home grinder very soon, and I am hopeful that the burrs do a good job at this grind setting, more than I hope they do a good job for espresso. Which is probably wrong but hey ho. I just can’t help but look at an espresso machine and worry that for all we spend and how hard we have to work, compared to how often we are satisfied. (Not that I am have fallen out of love with my Synesso, it still makes me worryingly happy).


Environment, Ethics, Sustainability and Business

For a long time now it seems that just being organic, or being fair trade was a good enough reason to be in business. This may seem a harsh judgment but I think the service sector jumped to supply the growing consumer desire for ethical produce and in focusing solely on that forget the rest of the customer experience.

We never wanted to be labeled as a “green” company, or an “environmentally friendly” company. We wanted to be labeled as a high quality speciality coffee roaster first and foremost. Of course this doesn’t mean you can’t be green, it just means that we don’t try and trade on it. This doesn’t just apply to coffee. As a customer of any company I driven primarily by product and customer experience. I won’t buy from somewhere just because they are a green company. In a way I am glad of the growing omnipresence of certifications of ethical or environmentally sound trading, because it has the two-fold effect of increasing the benefit from people working like this, along with removing it as a USP. I hope this makes sense, though it probably doesn’t.

For this reason we’ve been pretty quiet about the whole coffee bucket thing. That and we wanted to check the valves we put in were working, and that the coffee was aging properly and there were no ill effects in the cup. These days I feel quite bad whenever I pack coffee into disposable packaging, it feels so wasteful – and yet I completely believe and rely upon the benefits of proper packaging for coffee.

buckets for coffee

Roast dated buckets waiting to go out

This brings me onto another subject.

Freshness

I worry we’ve shot ourselves in the foot as speciality coffee people. We’ve used “fresh roasted” as a tool for sales for so long that I think it might have started to backfire. I really don’t like very fresh coffee. I hate brewing it, it’s a complete pig. I like coffee 7 to 10 days old, I really, really do. Yet the consumer would likely be very disappointed that the coffee was a week old if they bought a bag and it arrived that far off roast. I’ve yet to find a way to brew very fresh coffee that overcomes the challenges of that much CO2 (we are talking espresso here) that I’ve had the acidity where I wanted it very quickly. Then again being this close to coffee so much, and being so analytical, one begins to worry if I even like coffee… (I do – and people like Gwilym are making me happy by pulling shots I can just sit back and enjoy.)

Cascara

Last one for now – this post is easily long enough already and I don’t want to overdo it…

I am staggered at how good this is. In truth part of me expected it to be ok, but to be more of a novelty than anything else. The first time we brewed it I was a little surprised, and every time since then I’ve come to love it a little more. Having this available is the only reason we left the description of “coffee fruit” in one of the labels because it really is there in the coffee, and being able to taste that – even in a very unusual way – I hope makes a really nice taste connection for people. If we had been opening the cafe sooner (we’re not – perhaps another post when the economic climate doesn’t irk me so much) then we definitely would have been serving this as our ice tea. Aida did an amazing job and I am sure we are one of many companies hoping to see more of it next year.

cascara

Delicious dried coffee cherry flesh and skin

Ok. Rant over. Maybe there will be a new post tomorrow, maybe in 2009. Who knows…

Harangue me in the comments….

Square Mile Coffee Roasters and this blog

Thursday, May 29th, 2008

So the time has come to clarify where this blog is going to go. Many businesses – cafes, roasteries and the like have blogs and I read most of them and enjoy them too. However this is not what jimseven is going to become. At some point in the future there may well be a Square Mile Coffee blog – used as a forum for all the company as a forum for learning.

As for jimseven – our latest offerings, pricings, business stuff in general – this will not appear on here. As you’ve probably noticed we decided not to chart our progress online but to quietly work away until we had something so exciting we wanted to share. We do have a few fun events planned that I will probably post about on here but only because it is a nice way to spread the word and it is pretty non-commercial stuff.

I will still continue to post, though if the last few months are anything to go by, at a much reduced rate. This blog has been very good to me, and I enjoy the community and communication it brings as well as an excuse to bury my head in the books for an evening and write something cohesive.

However it would be rude of me not to give a little update on where we are. The first time we roasted coffee together was my coffee for the WBC in Tokyo. A lot has happened in the year since but it is a lot of fun to be roasting for the WBC again. Stephen will probably post more about his preparations on his blog in the future so I will leave that for now. We are also now roasting for our first few wholesale accounts and are enjoying the coffee we are roasting a lot, and looking forward to new crops arriving and becoming part of our espresso offering. Both Stephen and I are getting stuck into our customer training and support program, and a lot of credit for it should go to all the people and companies that have inspired us the last few years by setting that bar so high.

More and more people are coming by to hang out, have an espresso and just talk all things coffee and not coffee. It feels like London could have a real sense of community and we all hope that continues to develop. (If you are reading and do want to come by then shoot us an e-mail)

We are working on the website and once that is done there will probably be some sort of launch. As you can tell from the link we are pretty much done on the branding and that will be more fully revealed in time. Creating a brand has been less of a corporate exercise for us and more a development of an identity for the company that we will want to carry forward in the coming years.

I have also become a recent convert to the Jepy style Anfim mods – as seen on Baca and Drew’s grinders at the USBC. I’d like to thank John publicly for all the help he has given me in getting the thing wired in and working – the joys of owning and actually using a soldering iron! That coupled with the Synesso means I am really enjoying making coffee these days, actually taking pleasure from the equipment which I suppose is unusual for us grumbling baristas. (Though saying that does already feel a little commercial as we are distributors for Synesso!)

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Jepy-style Anfim and some nice espresso

So in theory – life is ok! Still, like anyone else starting a business I’d like more sleep, more stuff and to find huge wads of cash lying around in the street. A man can dream…….

East Coast Roadtrip – Easton and Baltimore

Sunday, March 9th, 2008

As I said in my last post the next event on my calendar was the barista jam at Easton, presented by Counter Culture and Troy from Cosmic Cup did a lot of the organisational stuff and hosting on the evening and day. We got in to Easton and bumped into John Hornall from Chestnut Hill Coffee at the hotel and had a good chat. From there we met up with the rest of the Counter Culture crew – Brian, Phil and Peter to eat fine Italian sandwiches and to talk more about Molly Ringwald.

The Jam opened up the night before with registrations, a keynote speech from Jon Lewis (that Jay Caragay filmed and I hope puts up on youtube) and then a talk from Peter Giuliano about sustainability and exactly what it can encompass and how far away we are from being a genuinely sustainable industry.

Jon Lewis

Jon is 18 grams of coffee

After that it was time for the Spro down. $10 bought you three minutes in which you could pull 3 times and most people served the last of those. Three stations were set up as we had 30 people to get through and I judged the second station with Devlin from New Harvest (who supplied the coffee). The coffee was very interesting – 1 yirg, a kenya, 2 roasts of a harrar and a sumatran coffee. The levels of acidity in it didn’t lend itself to well to updosed short shots and Rich from Aldo was the barista who progressed from our station to the final three with a slightly longer and more balanced shot. Phil from Counter Culture and Austin (a barista from New York) were the other two in the final. Again Rich pulled a longer and more balanced shot and that won him the day. I think he was quite surprised. The trophies were described as being from the Nick Cho trophy cabinet. (apologies for the coffeed injoke)

Devlin and Aaron Ultimo

Devlin and an excited Aaron Ultimo

rich aldo wins

Troy presents Rich his trophy

There was a really nice atmosphere and we headed to bed reasonably early, in order to spend more time being cross with the incredibly loud airconditioner whose sole purpose was to wake us up every hour on the hour.

The next day the jam started early and I was teaching (I use that word loosely) an espresso class. Lots more people turned up that day and the way it worked was to split them into two groups. It meant that I had a one hour espresso extraction class with a 3 group GB5 and 40+ people. It quickly degenerated into a question/answer session which was a lot of fun. I was somewhat nervous having Scott Rao in my second group as I tried to explain my theories about approaching brew recipes with a view to the components in your coffee and their roast level. People seemed to agree with what I was ranting about, and the atmosphere in the room was great.

talking to the baristas about espresso

Giving the espresso extraction class

There were a lot of people at the event I enjoyed meeting or catching up with again, and the demands of the roadtrip made leaving halfway into the day quite frustrating even if we were heading somewhere quite exciting. I could have spent hours talking to Jon, and the conversation about sig drinks between Jon, Jay and I was just getting interesting when the call of the road became too loud to ignore.

It was great to meet a load of baristas there, and that jam seemed to me to be what barista jams were all about – interaction, fun and lots of great coffee. Congrats to everyone who worked hard on it.

So on the road and a quick stop in Philedelphia for a tasty espresso at a brand new store called Spruce Street (thanks Faith), and a waffle that I hope was worth the parking ticket (I thought it was!) before heading down to Baltimore as we had reservations at the Woodberry Kitchen. If you read Jay’s blog you have probably heard of the place and my expectations were pretty high.

Spike, the owner and chef, met us on the way in and I was later quite excited when he took our menus away and made decisions for us. The setting of the restaurant is fantastic, a beautiful old brick building, high ceilings, wonderful detail and to back it all up Spike and his chefs can really, really cook. Cindy, Ryan Jensen, Anette and I enjoyed about 5 courses I think, and Ryan and I shared a fantastic bottle of wine.

Spike came over at the end for a chat, and asked if I had had coffee. His barista apparently had been primed but I had decided against it, because for a long time now I had been against espresso in restaurants, but he insisted and I had to eat my words as the shot Mischa (his barista) pulled really was very, very good. In fact the best espresso I’ve ever had in a restaurant. (I am aware not every place has a 2 group Cyncra and a dedicated barista!) I was impressed and for once a great meal was improved and not ruined by the coffee.

Us at the Woodberry Kitchen

Mischa, myself, Anette and Spike at the Woodberry Kitchen

I love the feel of the place, and the level of care and detail in every section impressed me, and it sounds like what they are planning to do next is going to be amazing.

After this we headed into DC, guests at the Jensen/Ultimo household – but more about that in the next post….

Square Mile and Synesso in the UK

Sunday, January 6th, 2008

People have been asking so I thought I would clarify this.

We are indeed a distributor for Synesso espresso machines in the UK. I’ve been a fan of them for some time, both as a piece of machinery as well as a company. We’ve known for a while we wanted to use them within Square Mile, but we were very happy with the opportunity to supply them here. This isn’t the place to go into the hows and whys, as I’d like to keep jimseven as a personal blog but on this occasion it seemed easier to post here.

We’ll get all the details like pricing and lead times up when the website at Square Mile gets its first update later this month, and in the mean time if anyone has any questions please drop us a line at synesso@squaremilecoffee.com

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Pulling shots at the Synesso factory

From Costa Rica until Christmas

Sunday, December 23rd, 2007

This blog has been very quiet these last couple of weeks, the main reason being that I haven not! (Warning – long post to follow!)

So last time I posted it was about the evil Broca, which no one likes. The reason I had seen so much about them was that I had spent a few days at CICAFE in Costa Rica, where they have a research farm. I had been invited to Costa Rica by ICAFE and I was delighted to get the chance to go and see Herbazu as well as visit another producing country. CICAFE was an interesting place – though a lot of their work is on yield and pest prevention – some lots of their Villa Sarchi are producing 50 quintales per hectare when only two years old. This is a lot of coffee…..

The first couple of days I was there I was doing seminars. The first day was more competition based – a talk to judges in the morning and then one to competitors in the afternoon. Costa Rica has a relatively long running history of barista comeptition – 6 years now I think. Espresso also seems to be taking off in a big way in San Jose and beyond.

People asked lots of questions which was good, and I did my best through the fog of jetlag, and I think it was interesting for everyone to taste different coffees, different styles of espresso and also for us to argue around and discuss how espresso is “supposed” to taste.

The next day I was asked to give a broader spectrum lecture – covering all aspects of coffee consumption across Europe. People who attended were interested in the expectations of the ever growing number of tourists visiting Costa Rica. I have to say it was good for me to be challenged – to try and organise my thoughts and vague understanding of this huge topic into a couple of hours. Again – lots of questions and hopefully people enjoyed it. It is always fun to be translated though the delay between joke and laughter often makes you feel a bit silly!

Now some bad news – I somehow lost all my photos from Costa Rica. I have no idea how – one morning they were just gone from Aperture and my hard drive. I was most cross. Hopefully I can recover some after Christmas from the CF card but we shall see. If I do get some back I will duly update this post but sadly a few really great ones have definitely been lost forever. I do however have a bit of video that I shall crowbar in here for fun later on.

Anyway – the next morning was an early one as I was on live tv – the Costa Rican equivalent of Richard and Judy (UK injoke I am afraid). They asked me to make a couple of fun drinks people could try at home and I was relieved my latte art didn’t suck too badly. It is interesting only having 3 minutes to set a grinder – divided into 3 one minute bursts whilst they cut from live to VT.

After the tv show Francois from the ACFCR picked me up and we headed out towards Herbazu. This, for me, was the most important part of the trip and it was a pleasure to sit in Antonio’s kitchen drinking his coffee and chatting about using his coffee in competition and beyond. I was surprised at how good the coffee was – not just because it was from past crop but also because it was brewed in a traditional cloth filter which to those embracing espresso is almost an embarrassing way to make coffee. I disagree, I love a little tradition and the cup (beyond the wonderful situation itself) was really good.

After coffee we toured the farm seeing different varietals they have and meeting a few of the pickers there who had started on part of the farm. It wasn’t yet into full production – about 40% of the total pickers were active. Like many Costa Rican farms Herbazu are tentatively looking at Geisha – they had some plants in the nursery as well as out in the fields likely to yield in ’08/’09. For the most part they are sticking with Villa Sarchi as it has been pretty good to them so far!

We had lunch at a restaurant overlooking the farm and its mill and then Francois and I headed out from Naranjo to Heredia to see another farm whose coffee I know a little – Las Brumas.

The owner was a great guy – totally excited about coffee, about experimenting with varietal and processing and creating boutique lots of coffee to people who want it. The process slightly differently to many farms in Costa Rica – they produce what they call “Honey Coffee”. This is mostly to do with the pulping – they pulp with almost no water and their equipment lets them decide how much mucilege (honey) is left behind – 20%, 40%, 60% or 100%. The coffee is dried straight after pulping on patios – though the last couple of days are spent in suspended screen beds.

After a couple of tasty tomales (it being Christmas time after all) Francois took me back to the hotel where I was collected by a group of baristas to go to a house party. It was a pleasant evening of good food, drink and good opportunity to listen to a lot of spanish and learn a few Costa Rican phrases (pura vida etc!) At the end of the night suddenly they presented me with a few thank you gifts which took me by surprise and was incredibly generous.

What I found quite inspirational was that the gifts came from the Bombillo Club – an informal group set up to allow baristas and other coffee professionals to get together and socialise out of work hours and to chat about coffee, to have lectures, to cup and to learn. I was impressed and I’d love to see more groups like this forming.

I realise I’ve written quite a lot so I shall move quickly through the rest of the trip – I did a few magazine interviews, I filmed 4 different drinks stood out in a coffee field for a tv show called La Cocina Alternativa which was crazy and on my final night in San Jose the town went crazy with the Festival of Lights – a huge parade through the main street lasting several hours full of floats, funky-ass marching bands, cheerleaders and all sorts of everything else.

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Jugglers at the Festival of Lights

Also whilst out in the fields with a pan, a gas heater and some water I did the obvious thing and grabbed a load of ripe cherries and tried cooking them down with some water to see what I would get. It was not as expected – part sweet cherry taste, part cooked lettuce. Next time I will cook down pulped seeds without the skins.

A little video:

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I arrived home from Costa Rica just in time to rent a car and to drive to Belgium. Anette was teaching a course there and it was also an opportunity to pick up our sample roaster. This will require a post of its own in the future but it is beautiful. It is a five barrel Gothot that is the same model as this one:

Gothot sample roaster

Gothot sample roaster at the Probat Museum

It will be both restored and modded a little – I have big plans to make it extra beautiful and extra functional.

I arrived home, caught a few hours sleep and then back in the car to drive up to Edinburgh, via Bunn (thanks for the TDS meters Mike!) to install a Synesso. Stephen Morrissey had already flown in and it was 7pm by the time I got there and I didn’t leave Kilimanjaro coffee til 1 (espresso is too much fun) and like a fool I drove straight back down to London to crash out at 7am (850 mile roundtrips are not fun in a day) and then get up to fly to Trondheim.

Synesso at Kilimanjaro Coffee in Edinburgh

Synesso at Kilimanjaro coffee

Life, it seems has been conspiring against us because when we finally got to Oslo to connect to Trondheim we discovered an airport in chaos and at 1am that night they finally cancelled our flight meaning no sleep and queueing for 9 hours along with the hundreds and hundreds of others for new flights.

Now in Trondheim I’ve done little else than sleep and wander about in the snow. It is lovely here, plenty of snow but not too cold and a pleasant break from the coffee world. I get to help Anette hack down a Christmas tree and enjoy not being in a city.

If you have read this far then thank you for reading, I hope you have a great Christmas and thanks to everyone who has contributed here or via e-mail – it makes writing for the blog a real pleasure. I will post something before NYE rounding up the year but for now – drink, eat and sleep and have a splendid Christmas.