Torrefacto Roasted Coffee

Had a weird one today – a bag of coffee roasted in Spain that at first glance looked a very odd mixture of roasts:

It wasn’t until I broke one of the shiny ones open that I worked out what was going on.  Inside the dark, sticky beans the colour wasn’t nearly as dark and in fact was pretty light.  I stuck one in my mouth and the weird sticky, sweet outer coating (the person I was with suggested sugar puffs as a description and he was spot on) pretty much confirmed that these were the result of the weird and rarely seen (in the uk anyways) practise of throwing sugar in the with the beans to help disguise qualities of the coffee.  Back when I was just getting into coffee chemistry I managed to get hold of my first scientific paper and it was about this style of roasting.  Sadly (sort of) I didn’t get to taste them.  I sort of want to know more – do you need special equipment for this?  How much sugar do you add?  Do you spray on sugar water?  Can it ever possibly actually taste nice?  Anyone ever had a go?

Sugar (Part 1): Sucrose

I know this blog is predominantly about coffee but sometimes I find the things that surround us worth a look too. Though we may not approve of customers shovelling spoonfuls of sugar into their drinks, and we certainly don’t approve of espresso that requires a spoonful to go from being mouth-achingly sour to merely unpleasantly astringent, I thought it might be of interest to have a slightly more in depth look at the little white crystals.

The components of sucrose: glucose & fructose


As a building block of other sugars and carbohydrates it is referred to as a simple sugar. Though present in fruits naturally, it is usually found as part of a mixture of other sugars. It is the building block that links together to create starch. If you go looking for it in the kitchen then you’ll find it in corn syrup.

It doesn’t taste as sweet as sucrose, nor can you dissolve as much in water.


You can usually find this on the shelves of the supermarket in crystalline form. It has the same chemical formula as glucose, it is just arranged slightly different which makes it taste much sweeter. It is also a lot more soluble in water, and in water it exists in different shapes which further influence its perceived sweetness.

Perceived sweetness is highlighted again by fructose. In a cold drink it makes sense to sweeten something with fructose rather than sucrose. It is sweeter so you can use less which decreases the calories of the drink. However, put it in a cup of coffee and its perceived sweetness drops to that of sucrose. All sugars suffer variations in their sweetness in relation to temperature but none as drastic as fructose.


Produced via photosynthesis and then extracted from plants like sugar cane and sugar beets. It is made of a unit of glucose bound to a unit of fructose (sorry if this is stating the obvious). We find it the most useful of sugars because it has a high sweetness, and tastes pleasant at higher concentrations – other sugars can get a bit harsh. You can dissolve 2 parts to 1 part water and resulting solution is thicker and more viscous than other sugars.

Broken down again we have another use for it – invert sugars. When you break down sucrose in the presence of acid or an enzyme then the components don’t crystallise – fructose won’t fully crystallise in the presence of glucose and sucrose. The best chocolate syrups for etching don’t really have much in the way of chocolate in them – the fat content would ruin your foam before you had a chance to drag it one way or the other. If you check the back and they are high in invert sugar then they will sit on top of the drink and look pretty for as long as you need.

The profile of sucrose is different again. Sucrose takes a short time to register on the tongue, whereas fructose is more immediate and is stronger. Sucrose lingers longer, whereas fructose’s sweetness is shortlived. (These peaks – in my head at least – mimic the flavour release profiles linked to fat content – with fructose being like a skimmed milk cappuccino and sucrose more like full fat).

Sucrose in coffee

Sucrose isn’t present in roasted coffee, as it all reacts to form other components during roasting. However it is present in green coffee, and is the major free sugar therein. Various comparative studies of arabica and robusta have been done – though often with quite small sample ranges so the data is not absolute. Ranges of up to 8% have been found in arabica, whilst around 4% have been found in robusta 1. Obvious variations in the sucrose can be the result of varietal, ripeness, processing and storage but I am yet to find anything concrete (links welcome).

In the next article I will have a look at a few other sugars, as well as artificial sugars and sugar alcohols. If there is interest then perhaps a short summary of the history of sugars in our diet.

Comments welcome

  1. Tressl, R. Holzer M. and Kamperscroer, H., Proc. 10th Coll. ASIC, 1982, 279-92  ↩︎