A look at last year’s prediction

I used to do annual predictions, and then I stopped but apparently I couldn’t quite give up the habit as last year I made some predictions about the C-market, and the coffee market in general in 2014.

So let’s have a look and see where I was right and (as usual) wrong:

We’re going to see less coffee from Central American producers ongoing.

This is, so far, looking to be fairly accurate. Crop years get confusing (we’re going to be receiving the 2014 crops of Centrals this year…). Data comes from the ICO: 1

Central Production Data

We saw a further decline (13.4% decrease, down nearly a quarter on two years before) in Central American coffee primarily due to rust. There has been some recovery – but this year’s crop figure will give better insight into whether we lost some producers along with the drop in yields.

Hopefully the demand from speciality will drive the prices for high quality coffees up, ideally to the point where growing good coffee is sensible and sustainable.

Hard to speak across an industry. This was certainly true for the prices paid at work.

We’re going to see more coffee from Colombia. It seems like the rust resistant varieties are starting to kick in, and Colombia’s production is up.

This has been borne out – both Colombia’s production and its exports are up. More data from the ICO:

Screen Shot 2015-01-15 at 12.33.38

You can see from the previous table that Colombia’s production has been back above 12 million bags for the last couple of years, after the drop caused by rust. Notable is the amount of coffee exported which was jumped quite dramatically, despite a 2% increase in production there was an 18% increase in exports.

Brazil’s production is going to be sufficiently large that it will continue to squash the commodity price.

This where it all falls down. Brazil’s crop wasn’t as expected, the drought making news around the world. Looking at the traditional cycle of crops this should have been a big crop year, a record crop year in fact. It wasn’t:

Screen Shot 2015-01-15 at 14.50.11

You can see from the chart that this was a year that bucked the on/off cycle trend. As a result the market was a lot more volatile in the last twelve months and prices went back up. Predicting weather is something I am not good at, nor are humans in general beyond a relatively short timeframe. Whether we want to bring climate change into this as a potential factor may be worth considering, as this was the driest period on record since they started recording 84 years ago.

I haven’t seen much in the way of predictions for next year’s crop yet, and I have no idea how much other countries are looking to produce. It does seem that the expected consumption for 2013 pretty much matches production, and with an annual growth rate of 2% it also seems likely we’ll have a year in 2014 in which more coffee was consumed than produced.

I also made a few other predictions:

Supermarket/grocery store coffee is going to remain pretty cheap. I would expect it to increase with inflation/cost of living but to look increasingly cheap compared to speciality.

Not successful here either, or maybe a little bit so. Smuckers, a large US company, put up their prices(9%) and saw a large decrease in sales. Kraft also put up their prices (10%), and the market saw a shift to cheaper coffee. Which means cheaper coffee was at least sufficiently plentiful.

I don’t know of an index that compares typical specialty prices to commoditised coffee prices at retail (we’d have to define speciality first I suppose) but I don’t think any serious speciality company decreased their prices this year (evidence to the contrary welcome!)

Wholesalers of lower quality coffee will once again be able to leverage free-on-loan equipment more aggressively, as it will be easier to hide the margin necessary in the price of the coffee.

I did see a little more of this in London. I continue to see free equipment as a way to bribe a business into overpaying for low quality coffee. I don’t think it is smart long term business.

Roasters, and coffee shops, will have some decisions to make. With the gap between speciality and commodity likely to widen then the choices may be to go premium, to go mass market or to try and bridge both.

In truth this is probably a low priority decision to make for many cafes. A more important decision is probably whether things like multi-roaster purchasing/guest espresso are as profitable and worthwhile as they’d like them to be. I’m hoping to manage a coherent and ideally neutral post on the subject at some point soon.

I don’t think we’ll see the wider industry embrace certifications again.

Maybe I am just not talking to the same people but I feel that 2014 was a year wherein no-one really talked about certifications. Consumers, cafes, roasters, importers – I just didn’t really hear anyone say anything about them. I should probably track down some sales data on this…

So – a mixed bag of predictions and speculation. Make of it what you will. For the sake of being complete here’s a quick chart showing the C-market prices in 2014:

Screen Shot 2015-01-15 at 15.11.56

I don’t really feel in a predicting mood for 2015, but that may change later in the month – who knows!

  1. This data comes from the September newsletter here: pdf. For their free newsletter keep an eye on this page.  ↩︎

Workflows and Software

This post has nothing to do with coffee. It is all about software, and how I work. If this is not of interest then stop reading now. You’ve been warned!

I like technology, I like software. Often, when chatting with various people in the coffee industry the subject has ended up on software, tools and productivity. I usually rant for a bit, and afterwards several people have told me that I ought to write a blog post on this stuff. I have avoided doing it for years, but I figured I will do it now. So, here is a blog post about software I like and how I use it day to day.

I should make clear from the start that for the last seven or eight years I’ve been using hardware from Apple. I’m aware of the downsides of their walled garden approach, I’m annoyed also that their software quality has undeniably been declining over the last couple of years especially. Nonetheless I’m happy enough with the software people are writing to stay for now. As such links will be to iOS and OSX software.

The outboard brain

I’m a big believer in the outboard brain – a place to store all the things you need to do, to remember, to research etc. I find getting as much of it out, onto paper or into software, to reduce my stress levels and ultimately make me happier.

For this I use OmniFocus. OmniFocus is expensive, painfully so – though I see it as less expensive than most of the mistakes I’m likely to make (and what price is happiness).

It kills me that the iPhone app is separate to the iPad app, which is separate to the OSX app. However, they all sync together well.

At first glance it is a glorified to-do list, but it goes a bit further. You can add key bits of metadata to each task – Project (what this task is working towards or part of) and Context (where you will be to perform this task). That way I can look at my to-do list different ways very easily, for example I have a context of “amazon” for everything I must remember to buy the next time I’m shopping on there. Or I have different contexts for colleagues, so I remember what I need to talk to them about when I next meet with them.

Increasingly I try to block out certain amounts of my working day to focus on specific projects, so looking at a specific to-do list for things like Coffee Jobs Board or this blog is great.

The app has a section called the “Inbox” where you can dump in ideas before you add the relevant data to it. This is great for moments of inspiration, things to research, recommendations (restaurants, bars, books, films, music) etc etc… You can add images to tasks too, which I use quite a lot when I see inspiring pieces of design.

I’m really only scratching the surface here – there’s a lot more you can do if you’re willing to invest some time into this stuff. As I said – £63 ($96) for all three apps is a lot of money in the software world (these days anyway) but I love it to death. (I will spare you the rant about how I’m anti free software, and believe strongly in paying for things.)

Omnifocus 2 iPhone – £13.99
Omnifocus 2 iPad – £20.99
Omnifocus 2 OSX – £27.99


 

Email

I hate email, I really do. I’ve been campaigning for years to convince people it should cost money to send emails (we’d all send and receive a lot less, and yet we’d communicate everything necessary and ultimately be more productive…)

Anyway – they’re not going away so I look for as much help as possible managing them.

On the phone:

For quite a while I was using an app called Dispatch that I think is great. There’s lots of genuinely useful functionality (I like all things like Text Expander though I never did quite get my head around their iPhone app). Recently my main email address has switched to using Google Apps which means I’ve been trying out a few new apps. Mailbox is easily the best (though only works if you have a Gmail backed account)

On the iPad:

Before using Mailbox for the iPad I was actually just using the default Apple Mail client. Software development rates and releases for the iPad are pretty depressing in a number of fields.

On the Mac:

I’m using Mailbox on there too for now but only to play around with (as it is still in Beta). I’m mostly using a rather lovely client called MailMate that is super geeky and wonderful. It is expensive, it isn’t pretty, it is incredibly powerful (especially the search – should you, like me have ludicrous numbers of emails) and it lets me write emails in Markdown (which is hopefully the nerdiest thing I will write in this post).

Services

I’m a big fan of Pinboard, when it comes to boookmarking. I love TextExpander for helping me with all sorts of things – I use stock email replies a lot less, but it has a million other uses. I’m painfully reliant on Alfred for doing or finding anything on my mac.

Prey Project was also recommended to me a few years ago, and there is an iOS app now too. I’d recommend people install this as its a useful piece of antitheft software. It’s clever, unobtrusive, free and I hope never to have to use it.


 

Other apps I think are good

iOS:

Tweetbot 3 – Best iPhone and desktop app for me. I like the iPad one too, but it hasn’t been updated for ages and looks pretty dated. Tweetbot 3 is intuitive, pretty, I don’t see sponsored tweets, mute is a great function etc etc.

Reeder 2 – I’d used this app for ages, then I went through a phase of post-GReader experimentation and ended up using back here using this as the front end of a Feedly account. I keep an eye on a lot of RSS feeds, which probably makes me a bit old school, but this is a great way of managing and consuming them.

Byword – I use this for writing blog posts and drafts of talks. It syncs across iOS and mac devices through iCloud so something I start writing on the bus gets finished on my laptop at the dining room table. Simple, wonderful.

VSCOCam – easily my favourite photo editor, though I prefer the functionality of Manual for actually taking photos.

Day One – I find writing a journal very rewarding, and it’s something I wish I did better. I love that this syncs between all devices and the desktop so I can write things in the back of taxis, on planes or sat in bed.

1Password – I don’t know most of my passwords, and that’s how it should be. Not enough people take password security seriously enough, and I certainly didn’t used to. Now all my passwords are all held in this app, synced everywhere and secure. 1 Most people’s password security is pretty terrible (great article on passwords here) so I try to do a little better.


I’ve held off writing this thing because I’ve always thought it wasn’t interesting to most people reading here. However, after enough requests I have given in. I will probably come back and update this from time to time.

  1. Or as secure as one might hope these days.  ↩︎

2014 in review – number edition

I thought it might be fun to look back at this year via a few numbers that make up different parts of my life.

Words published in the atlas: 74,803

I’d love to do copies sold, but I have no idea and don’t find out until March.1 I’m still a little bit amazed that I actually wrote the thing, and I have a new found love of hashtags as people’s use of them on services like Instagram has allowed me to see the book pop up all over the place. It really does make me happy to see so many photos of it.

When I was travelling this year lots of people were asking about this, so I’m hoping to announce a number of translations and release dates in the next few months, which I’m very excited about.

Words written on the blog: 18,240

I’m sometimes surprised that I write as much as I do on here. If I hadn’t looked at the stats I would have guessed at barely half of this. I feel like I did nothing but talk about new projects on here, which isn’t really the point of this site – so less of that next year.  2

I’ve been rightly taken to task about my petulant failure with the learning project. I misjudged its failure, and as such would like to bring it back this year.

I’m also working up a few videos, seeing as the old videocasts have been lost forever. Some will readdress some old topics, some will be new things.

Flights taken: 44 / Distance flown: 69,788 miles

I fly a lot, and I have pretty mixed feelings about this. In the past I’ve done carbon footprint calculations to offset this, but even that felt pretty trivial. Doing what I do requires a lot of travel, but I can’t help but wonder at which point it will feel unsustainable to travel as much. Parts of it are enormously fun, and other parts require me reminding myself that I am at work and not necessarily supposed to be enjoying myself. Balance is important though – and working a little harder on improving that balance is important for me this year.

Countries visited: 16

I got to spend more time in Asia in 2014, and I finally got to visit China for the first time. It was fascinating, especially as you can’t help but feel that the wider coffee industry seems to believe that China is the land of opportunity. I’m waiting for coffee’s version of the California Gold Rush, though I think many people will find it to be a market entirely different from their expectations.

Applications processed via Coffee Jobs Board: 14,905

This is my favourite metric to look at when I login in to the back end of the website. I’m very proud of what this site has achieved so far. It isn’t bad for a new website, a little more than 6 months old. However, it is still well below its potential in terms of connecting people with employers and opportunities outside of the UK. I’d like to see the site flourish in 2015, so will be devoting a little more of my time and resources to it. My goal is for that number to be 50,000 by 31st of December.

Things that can’t be measured

I’m not sure at what point in my life I started planning an entire year ahead, but looking ahead I realise I’m going to be very busy. This is also the year where I intend to take a humane number of days holiday – I cannot stress how much of a mistake I consider my failure to take time off properly to be. With things like the Victoria Arduino Gravimetric launch, Re:co and more already lined up I know I’m going to be busy. Then there are a couple more little projects I’m hoping to get going this year too…

Image credit: e y e / see
  1. It’s second run in the UK has sold out though, which is good!  ↩︎
  2. About a year ago, I wrote in a blog post: “In 2014 I want to follow through on things, achieve things and feel productive.” – sometimes it is nice to look back and feel like you did what you said you would  ↩︎

Quality and customers (a dialogue)

So – after my previous blog post, Tim Williams wrote a response here, which I said I would reply to.

I must begin with an admission of failure – I didn’t really do a good enough job communicating what I wanted to with it, which resulted in it being interpreted in a different way from that intended.

That said – there is something to Tim’s post, it does point out a flaw in my idea and approach:

So it worries me when James puts forward a sentiment that could so easily be interpreted as, “I’m OK, You’re OK: If you’re down with past crop naturals… It’s all good!”.

Because let’s be clear – within the industry I don’t really believe there should be any tolerance for those masquerading (intentionally or not) as high quality when it is all smoke and mirrors. It’s disappointing to see “seasonal” espresso blends full of flat, dead, El Salvadoran coffees in February.

I don’t deny that my original post could be a confusing message, but what I’m trying to hone in on is the initial contact with a consumer, who currently drinks low quality coffee, that we would like to “upgrade” to something much better. Great coffee is still a relatively small phenomenon, and every day, around the world,  we’re still giving people their first moment of exposure to it.

My concern is that when our tone implies we have something better, because we think what they are drinking is terrible, then we’re likely to have them become closed rather than open to trying something new and better. I’m not sure there is a way for us to communicate what we see (with their low quality coffees) as a fault in their current preferences, without being totally offensive to them – and I see this borne out in the real world whenever we try.

My point was that someone’s revealed preference should be accepted as a place to start, as a valid beginning to a hugely enjoyable journey – and not a point of judgement. I’m not saying that we tolerate, embrace or encourage low quality coffees – I’m saying that when we meet people that like them we should not try to make them feel bad about it, or come across in a way that makes them think that we see ourselves as their betters, because our preference is somehow morally better.

You could argue that this approach is duplicitous. I don’t think it is. I think taking a little time to understand why people like what they like – and being friendly and welcoming so that they actually tell us – reveals a goldmine of knowledge about that person and a wealth of opportunities to present something vibrant, enjoyable and approachable to them.

I’m not saying that the industry should stop working to improve quality, throughout the whole chain. What goes on, up until the point of consumer purchase, should be pushed to be improved by all of us working in coffee. I just want to make sure there is an ever growing audience of people for the spectacular, delightful coffees we know are possible and could be possible in the future.

What message do I want to send?

Over the last couple of years I’ve become increasingly uncomfortable with the ways that we have typically sold and tried to differentiate speciality coffee. My thoughts on this have certainly been clarified by the book, and by talking to people about it. I wanted to write up how I feel now, as part of this blog’s purpose is to document the way I think about things, though I expect this to continue to change and evolve over time.

The main problem is talking about what we do being “better”. It is defined as “better” because those who work in coffee, and taste a lot of it, generally agree that it is. (I’m sure we can argue that sentence for a long time, but that pretty much sums it up for me.) The problem with selling what we have as “better” is that it requires the consumer accepting that what they are currently buying, drinking and enjoying is an inferior product. People don’t really like this idea: On just about every coffee article with comments you see the pushback, people defensive about what they drink, how they brew it, bristling with self-righteousness, feeling that their preferences have been insulted by the article or whoever is quoted therein.

“I like my pre-ground Italian coffee, brewed in an unwashed moka pot, just fine thank you very much!”

I did a short radio interview on BBC London the other day  1 and towards the end of the interview I somehow managed to express how I feel about promoting what we have in a way I’m quite happy with.

The real joy of speciality coffee is its diversity, this is what makes it the antithesis of commoditized coffee. Whatever you drink right now, with a little bit of effort (and perhaps guided exploration) you’re likely to find something that you will enjoy even more than what you do now.

What you think is better might be totally different to what I think is better. I’m not right, and neither are you – because there is no right. There is no moral high ground of flavour. You don’t have to love crisp, super bright and juicy coffees from Kiambu, or explosively floral coffees from Yirgacheffe. Nor do you have to love the earthy, heavy, tobacco filled darker roasts of coffees from Indonesia. However, if you do like one of those things chances are there is a something out there that you’ll love even more.

A person’s preference is a place to start. To be acknowledged, accepted and considered. Even if their preference is the last thing on earth you’d want to drink yourself.

I’m aware this goes against some people’s ideals of speciality. There are definitions of speciality that cover green coffee, and there are people who believe that their definition of quality is the only true one. In some ways I don’t mind this. I also believe that no business can cover the entire spectrum, so we should focus on the bits that we’re particularly passionate about. What those of us in speciality coffee offer isn’t necessarily unilaterally better coffee, but amongst our offerings are lots of coffee someone will probably enjoy more than what they’re drinking now.

UPDATE:

A great response from Tim Williams over here at his tumblr. I shall write up a response to this very soon.

  1. My part starts around 1hr 33m into it – just after the Otis track  ↩︎

What is the purpose of what we do?

It’s hard to work in coffee for any period of time, without starting to wonder about purpose, about the “why” of what we do. Most of the time the first thought is a painful truth, because the answer is money. You own, or run a business, or work within one primarily as a way to generate income. That doesn’t really explain away the decision to spend your time working specifically within the industry of coffee.

It wasn’t long from starting a business to hitting the existential crisis or trying to understand what the point of it all is, beyond just making money. (I thought I had written a little about this before, but I couldn’t find the post.)

One of the most attractive things about the world of coffee is its size. It is an almost overwhelmingly large and complex industry. It also feels like an industry with purpose, and as such it is a pretty compelling place to work. However, I sometimes think that when it comes to purpose, one area that I believe many of us fall down in is understanding how we fit in to such a large system.

For the last few years I’ve been a loud supporter and proponent of the SCAA’s Symposium, held a couple of days before their main event each year. While I’ve enjoyed, and been grateful for, the opportunity to be on stage there – I get a lot out of participating as an audience member. When you combine stimulating or inspiring talks with a room full of people, who are passionate and active in the industry, then I think you have a great environment for gaining understanding and an overview of the wider industry. You can see opportunities for effective collaboration, for innovation, for exploration. You get a better idea of both where you want to go, as an individual or a business, and how that could be possible. This is invaluable.

I’ve repeatedly described running a business as being quite a lonely, isolating experience. (Even if you have business partners there is still a feeling of isolation). I’ve yet to meet anyone who really disagrees with this. Events like Symposium (or NBC, or even Barista Camp) feel like something of an antidote for that.

This is why I’m very pleased a new Symposium event is coming to Europe in 2015, called Re:co. It will be held in Gothenburg on the 15th and 16th of June, at Eriksbergshallen.

I was offered the opportunity to get more involved in the event, and I’m already enjoying working with WCE in its production, and SCAA and SCAE in its support. I’ll be working with the team on everything from content – covering both the speakers and the selection of topics – to the other aspects of the symposium such as a thoughtful coffee service, that we hope will make the event both inspiring, educational and memorable. (The SCAA have set the bar pretty high over the last few years with their Symposium, but I’m also a little competitive).

The landscape of great coffee in Europe has changed rapidly in the last few years – some cities have seen explosive growth of quality focused coffee businesses, and almost every country in Europe has a flourishing, passionate and connected local coffee community. Even the most traditional of coffee cultures are starting to see changes.

I hope this is an event people will get behind. I think they’re very good things for our industry. If you’re curious then I’d recommend subscribing to the mailing list so you can be the first to see who is speaking and to grab those early bird tickets. 1

One of the things I’m already most looking forward to about Re:co is the opportunity to talk more, about the issues I’m most focused on, with people of like minds. That, and some of the talks we have lined up…

  1. I respect those of you who follow me on social media, who have no interest in this stuff whatsoever, so I won’t be posting on my accounts  ↩︎

10 years of writing this blog

Ten years ago today I posted my first post on here. The idea was pretty simple – I wanted to learn more (learning can be hard if you feel isolated) and sharing is beneficial if you want to learn faster. I think that what was true then is true today.

Milestones, arbitrary as they may be, always tend to be times of introspection and (while nothing is more boring than a blogger writing about a blog post about their own blog) it has been interesting to spend a moment considering the role of my writing on here in my career in coffee.

I remember registering the blog, inspired by the blogs of Thomas Gauperaa (gone now), Chris Tacy and Tonx (also gone now). In the next few years it seemed like coffee blogging became somewhat fashionable – at one point I had maybe 300 blogs in the “coffee” folder of my RSS client. Then, slowly, they all began to disappear or become dormant. That isn’t to say that new, interesting blogs haven’t started more recently – more that there was a massive swell that has since receded.

There are somewhere around 400,000-450,000 words published on here, spread across about 870 blog posts. I did think about turning the best bits of it into a little book but I’d imagine the demand for something like that would be so small that the resulting price would put off the few interested. I’m quite pleased that the timing of my book has meant that I do get to publish something I’m proud of on my ten year anniversary. (I’m also delighted, and relieved, by people’s positive reaction to the book. Thank you!)

I think it is worth restating how valuable writing here has been to me. It has done so much for me, both personally and professionally, that I’ll continue to recommend people do it – no matter how much further out of fashion it falls.

Writing here has always been a great way to clarify my thoughts, to force me to think coherently enough on

Miscellanea for September

I thought I’d post a quick round up of various things that are going on at the moment:

The Atlas

First of all – it looks like copies of the World Atlas of Coffee are starting to arrive with resellers. There’s no embargo on the book so, even though the release date is the 6th October, you can grab them now. Amazon will ship so books are delivered on release day.

There’ll be copies for sale in the Square Mile Webshop if you want to buy a signed copy direct from me (which would be lovely – but local is good too!). At the latest, signed copies will be available from the 10th October, dependent on the stock arriving and my travel schedule.

It’s not too late if you want to be a stockist. Just fill in your details here, and the local publisher and distributor will get in touch with you (anywhere in the world).

I’m Hiring

I need some help with the various projects I have ongoing, mostly the Coffee Jobs Board. Therefore I’m looking for a part time EA/PA, ideally based in London. You can see the ad (and perhaps apply!) here. It feels a little weird to be hiring for this role, but having some support would be extremely helpful. I hope that I can offer more than money for someone interested in this industry, or in business.

Upcoming Events

I go to Moscow tomorrow, for a Black Eagle event there with DoubleB. After that it’s Seoul to take part in the WBC All Stars event – looking forward to hanging out with Matt, Alejandro and Nick! I’m curious to see how the coffee culture there has changed in the last two years. (I will try not to flood my instagram and twitter with my incredulous postings!)

Straight after Korea is Barista Camp. I’m delighted the camp has sold out, and I think it is going to be both educational and huge amounts of fun. I’m looking forward to meeting baristas from all over Europe, and there should be plenty of time to chat about all things coffee. It’s been a while since I travelled and got to meet lots of new coffee people – if you’re going to be at one of these events then do please say hello.

It’ll be weird to be travelling the day the book comes out – but that’s another post for next month…

A few things I learned writing the atlas

The experience of writing the book was an interesting one, and not always pleasant. The process involved finding as much information as I could, trying to pare it down to what I considered important and then doing my best to fact-check what I found.

There were moments when there would be little epiphanies, though these weren’t always good feeling ones. I came into coffee at a time when speciality was on the rise. I came to know coffee through stories of direct trade, relationships with producers, trying to pay premiums and to push quality forward.

What didn’t make sense to me were certifications like Fair Trade. I was dismissive of them because I couldn’t see how they fit into my world of speciality. They didn’t focus on quality at all! How ridiculous! What was worse, so many of my favourite coffees came from single estates – and when I learned that a single estate couldn’t ever be Fair Trade certified it seemed even more laughable to me. (Ah, the arrogance of youth…)

Writing the history of each coffee producing country brought my foolishness and shortsightedness into sharp focus. What I wanted to do was look at the history of each country to understand how it had ended up with the level of traceability it had: why was coffee in Central America so much more traceable than coffee in Papua New Guinea or Ethiopia?

The Europeans

Each and every chapter could likely have contained a sub heading of “That time the Europeans were complete b*stards” because, invariably in every country there was such a time. The English, the Spanish, the Portuguese and the Belgians (especially the Belgians – who were often utterly evil and no one seems to take them to task about this any more) did atrocious, unspeakable things – from a place of greed, ignorance and a callous belief in their superiority. It got to the point during the research that I was just waiting, as I worked chronologically through the local coffee production timeline, for the bad things to happen – I was never disappointed…

The locals

That doesn’t mean that all the terrible things were done by colonists. The painful past and guilt of land ownership, of theft and displacement, of abuse and slavery, belongs to a great many people in each and every country. This doesn’t mean everyone who owns a coffee farm is a terrible person, or that every person who owns a coffee farm has some historical skeleton in the closet – it just means it’s all complicated. Certainly more complicated than I can deal with in this post, or within the book.

Fair Trade

When you look at the past the actions of those who set up schemes like Fair Trade make more sense – and the idea that it was designed to support cooperatives, rather than those whose families had acquired land at some stage, makes a great deal of sense. This side of coffee’s history is rarely on display, and while the price crashes of the past are well known I don’t think many people in my coffee generation are particularly aware of this stuff.

I’m sure it isn’t just me

Like I said – the history of coffee and land ownership raise incredibly big, difficult issues, and I didn’t really look to tackle them in the book. I hope people who read through the chapters are inspired to read a little more on the subject. For a quick overview, and a starting place on the subject, have a look at the Wikipedia article on land reform by country.

Why I won’t buy anything from Chiquita Banana

Writing about Guatemala was one of the most depressing chapters for me. You can read plenty about it online, but the summary would be that 10 years of progressive land reform between 1944 and 1954 didn’t sit well with US owned United Fruit Company. Their big, very profitable business, owned 42 percent of arable land in Guatemala (how they got it is another story) and it was threatened by this reform. In short, they convinced the USA government to have the CIA stage a coup d’etat, which spiralled into a civil war – the longest and bloodiest in Central American history. 100,000 Guatemalans would be “disappeared” during this war. United Fruit Company is now known as Chiquita Banana. This is the same company that had apparently urged the Colombian military to fire on its striking banana workers in 1928 – estimates of the casualties at the time range from 47 up to 2,000. (In case you were wondering where the term “Banana Republic” came from…)

Bananas or coffee?

On one level this has nothing to do with coffee. However, in so many ways it has everything to do with coffee – with our relationship with those who produce the crops we import, with the attitude we’ve inherited towards trade with developing countries, and how our history has shaped our present. As a species we like to demonstrate a complete failure to learn the lessons of our history. I confess that I had been in coffee a surprisingly long time before I really dug into its history. It was revelatory, saddening and also inspiring. I’d like to do better, for us all to do better – and I am more driven to that end than I have ever been.

 

World Atlas of Coffee 1 Amazon UKAmazon USA

  1. I hope to have a website up showing all resellers as soon as possible, if you’d like to shop with independents  ↩︎

Book Review: The Coffee Roaster’s Companion

In the past I’ve written up lists of recommended reading, and there is always one question that comes up that, I have struggled to answer: “What book should I buy on coffee roasting?”

Until today the options have been limited to Ken David’s book, or the harder to find little books like Gerhard A. Jensen’s “Coffee Roasting”. Neither are likely to make you an better at roasting, whether you roast at home or roast commercially. Roasting is a tricky business, and learning to roast feels more like trial and error than anything else. Many companies consider their roasting techniques and approaches proprietary, and have traditionally been unwilling to share. I’m actually a believer in proprietary information, and when I found out Scott Rao was going to write a book on coffee roasting this inspired further action for me at work. I had little doubt that this was going to be a book that was going to make coffee, across the whole industry, significantly better. I have not been disappointed.

Writing about roasting chemistry is difficult, and I think Scott has done an impressive job in cutting to the chase and presenting the important stuff in a way that seems real and accessible. While we understand the Chlorogenic acids are important, the whole discussion of them in roasting or brewing often feels abstract – here they do not.

What most people will want to read straight away are the practical roasting sections. Scott himself acknowledges this, but I would heed his note:

“I implore the reader to study the entire book and not focus solely on the “how to” chapters. Experience with my previous books has taught me that readers who cherry-pick the parts that appeal to them end up missing some of the big picture, leading them to misapply some recommendations”

I’m not going to cover the practical information in the book, other than to say that it is valuable and I definitely learned a good deal on my first couple of read throughs. Discussion of Rate of Rise (RoR), development, and things like ΔT are important, useful and ultimately very helpful. Scott has a very practical, methodical approach and I have no doubt that we’ll be looking at how we can implement his advice in a variety of places at work. I’m also delighted to see a section on sample roasting – something that it is almost impossible to find any good resources on.

Some people will reject what is in here, as it is contrary to their practices or beliefs. We’ve presented roasting as an art, as a personal expression of a roaster, so opinions that don’t validate what some people do can feel like criticism. They’re not – they’re opportunities to get better. Scott is cautious throughout to state that he’s trying to open up discussion. I think he’s given coffee roasters a base language that will allow us to better express the green coffees that we love, that we want to share and showcase to their full potential. I don’t think I absolutely agree with everything Scott writes, but I feel in a much better place when it comes to discussing that, arguing my point, and pushing my understanding of roasting to achieve the cup of coffee that we have in my heads.

You can buy the book direct from Scott. If you have any dealings with roasting coffee then I suspect this may be the best $45 you’ll spend.

The Coffee Roaster’s Companion – $45

Distributing/Selling The World Atlas of Coffee

After the last blog post I received a lot of emails and tweets from various people asking about selling the Atlas in their cafe, in their online shop etc, from around the world. So – if you’re a coffee business of any kind then hopefully this will be of interest to you…

I should be clear that I’m just the author, not the publisher – so I have limited control over somethings. However, it would mean a lot to me to have cafes supporting the book and I definitely want to do whatever I can to enable this and get distributors access to good pricing, to make this worthwhile. I want this to be useful to any coffee business in every way possible.

Worldwide the English language edition will be out in October. Translations won’t be out until June next year, though the English version will be available via distributors. There are currently translations planned (but not confirmed) for French, Spanish, Dutch, Czech, Portuguese, Japanese, Korean and Chinese. Hopefully more to follow!

To help make all this easier I had a quick chat with the publisher and figured I would start with collecting the information of companies that would be interested. I can hopefully work with distributors and my publisher to sort out direct access to books. There will likely be a minimum order to get wholesale pricing, but I don’t know what that is yet.

There are a couple of boxes to check, relating to potential events. Nothing is confirmed yet, but I travel a lot and (while most authors tell you to avoid book signings) there may be a chance to do something creative if I am a town or city where people are stocking it. I am also working on an idea for a launch event that I’d like to try and coordinate nationally (and internationally if possible) that could be a more interesting way to do a book launch, and also get consumers a little more excited and curious about the possibilities of coffee. Nothing below is a commitment of any kind – just collecting contact info at this stage. Thanks again to those who’ve gotten in touch, the response has been lovely and I’m grateful that so many people want to support the book.