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So - many of you know I was very kindly invited to Minneapolis to be part of the blog team updating the SCAA Blog. I was in esteemed blogging company - Erin Meister, Travis (quiet but awesome videoist) and Katie and Zachary who happened to change the face of coffee blogging back in Tokyo last year. Our remit was simply to cover the show, and to some extent we were making it up as we went along.

This was my first USBC and my last SCAA show had been Seattle in 2005. I had never attended any SCAA workshops before, so didn’t really know what to expect from that angle. Covering a talk ate up a lot of time, and often resulted in what seemed like not that much text. I think all of us were aware that we were writing for the SCAA, at their expense so we just tried to find the best of the show.

Of course the real draw for most people was the USBC. This has to be the most hardcore of the barista competitions outside of the WBC. The open rounds had 50 spots, and those baristas were whittled down to 16 who joined the 9 regional champions in the semifinals. Some amazing baristas didn’t make it through round one, which was oddly depressing and inspiring.

A very calm Chris Deferio in the semis pouring lovely tulips

Bronwen watching the clock

The highlight of the competition for me was getting to MC the finals with Nick Cho. It wasn’t getting to be onstage, or talk rubbish into a microphone. It was getting all six of the finalists to make us an espresso after their performance was over. I know what you are thinking, it is what everyone has been asking - which was best?

It is a difficult question to answer. Drew certainly had the advantage of making my first shot of the day, and it always tastes better when your body wants caffeine. Nick’s shot was really interesting though I was more focused on looking for the leather/sweet suede he described (which I totally got!). Heather’s shot reminded me of the WBC blend she brought to machine testing - quite heavy and with some prominent naturals. In contrast Chris Baca’s single estate Brazilian natural was not very naturally and super clean and complex. Pete’s blend was, in my humble opinion, more a traditional espresso blend (certainly in contrast to the three other single estate shots I’d taste) - quite heavy bodied and sweet. Kyle’s shot was stolen by Katie and he very kindly remade me a double. At this point I was quite caffeinated but his pull was very different to Nick’s - shorter and more intense, with the acidity a bit louder. Looking back it is tricky to pick a favourite but I told the people right after that it was probably Drew’s - though that isn’t to demean those other shots that were also truly excellent but suffered an increasingly caffeinated taster.

I get to this point and I realise I haven’t really talked about the first round or the semis. I didn’t get to see all of either though it was kind of fun to be allowed onstage (to photograph) whilst a few awesome people performed. I enjoyed Ben Helfen go job hunting in Finland, and Lem Butler… what can I say - Lem was a pure drama, rollercoaster-ride of a performance that brought tears to my eyes when against all odds he came in on time despite luck being against him and scuppering the start of his set. Watch the video…..

Sexy Foam

Come to think of it that stage was crazy - being up there was not a comfortable experience. The combination of the lights, the sound and the stadium seating meant you felt very distant from the audience and I think the overall experience threw a good number of the competitors. Perhaps those who had to go through round one had an advantage over those in the semis in that they knew a little more of what to expect from that. It looked great as a stage though!

Chris Baca in the Finals

For onstage photographing I was often accompanied by Meister who was far better at being out of the way than I was, and also by Liz “Twitchy” Clayton. Talking to Liz we would often joke and aim to get the best possible intense judging pictures. This is one of my favourites, in my mind the portafilter is glowing like gold…..

Intense Judging

Jay’s libation (I know Jon isn’t a God technically, but I couldn’t think of a better word - “toast” just doesn’t seem to do it) was a lot of fun - people always have high expectations of Jay’s performance and this was more touching than shocking.

Jay Handing out the beer

One thing was clear this year - lots more talking about the coffee. Lots more, which I something I thoroughly approve of. Baristas were there representing their coffee in a different way, seemingly more aware of a barista’s position in the coffee chain. It seemed to be the first competition I’d seen where the espresso upstages the sig drink and that is something no one can complain about.

I didn’t taste as much as I would have liked to - in terms of all the drinks, but I did manage to snaffle a few glasses out of the bussers trays. I’d like to apologise to the busser who tried to stop me tasting a drink, telling me I wasn’t allowed but unable to stop me because she was stuck holding the tray with both hands. (And no - I didn’t give it the “don’t you know who I am?!” crap, despite several people suggesting that this is the way to go in such situations…)

No doubt Kyle’s individual sig drink preparations were a great little concept, in line with espresso being a drink prepared to order, for an individual opposed to other bulk brewing methods. Scott Lucey’s sig drink was also great - simple, yet very tasty and totally ticking the texture box for me with its custard component. I would have killed to taste Baca’s drink but the judges drank it all every time (as asked) so we (me, hopefully bussers, audience members, friends and bloggers) were left salivating but unsatisfied. I have to just add that the whole Ritual crew were very inspiring to me, as were the Intelli crew. People like that get me excited about coffee and I don’t think it is out of place to say that if there were a barista’s barista award at the show (as there have been at some regionals) then Baca may well have picked that up.

Those crazy

The ever awesome Scott Lucey

One more note on the competition - the live feed. I can’t believe how well it worked out, how much fun it was to interact with people watching and on occaison to pick up the laptop and do a little backstage cam stuff. Sorry for my silliness. The quality of the feed will only improve and I hope to online as well as live at the WBC, interacting again with all those online watching things unfold.

There is lots of other discussion circling around online - from the SCAA blog coverage to the grinders baristas were using onstage and the techniques that went along with them. The doserless Roburs are terrifyingly fast (2.5s for around 19-20g by the look of things) but I suspect the Anfim’s scored higher. It was great to talk to John Ermacoff about the mods he has done on the ones Ritual are using. I suspect that if you put John Ermacoff, Greg Scace and Andy Schecter into a workshop for a month, gave them unlimited budget, then they would come up with something that would totally change the way we brew espresso.

I spent virtually no time on the show floor, which was quite frustrating as there were lots of people I wanted to see, but I had a few good drinks - the Chemex of Ethiopian Konga from Lindsay at 49th was delightful as was my espresso from Jeremy on the Synesso booth. Getting into lectures and workshops at the show was a privilege but I don’t really have anything to add to the stuff on the SCAA blog.

So congratulations to Kyle. I am a big fan of his, it was a pleasure to watch him perform three times and to see that performance evolve onstage. He is not only technically outstanding as a barista but a great ambassador for specialty coffee in the United States. That and he makes me laugh quite a lot. Hopefully I’ll catch up with him before WBC, but if not I can’t wait to see him again there and see what he brings to the stage.

I know I’ve missed out people, coffee and things and I apologise - I always forget stuff and my head still isn’t on the right way around. I am sure people reading this will have questions and I will try and answer them - and if I have forgotten obvious stuff (not unlikely) I will add to it asap.

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Iceland seems a good time to post because I am also looking ahead to SCAA in Minneapolis. I am part of a team of bloggers (I have never been called that before, I don’t know how I feel about it) covering all aspects of the SCAA conference at the SCAA Blog. I am very excited! If people have specific requests of what they would like to see, or read about, then let me know. I am also thinking of cross posting stuff on here but I am not sure it is necessary. (thoughts?)

Anyway - Iceland!

Expectations were high, mostly because all the Icelandic coffee people I know are awesome. Anette and I arrived and had a quick snoop around town before heading over to Adi’s birthday at the newest Kaffitar (which is beautiful and unlike any coffee shop in London) and then over to the venue to have a quick look.

The morning callibration was at the Tea & Coffee training room, and as Brent Fortune was also judging with us it was a nice chance to discuss rules, regs, judges training and all (though I don’t envy the work Brent and others are doing in the run up to the USBC).

Most competitions are pretty hectic to judge, and a little frustrating because it is hotel, exhibition centre (which all look the same) then restaurant, then back to hotel to try and sleep. With less competitors we got to enjoy things a bit more.

After the first day’s competitors we all piled into a couple of cars and headed East into Iceland. Instead of being all touristy and going to the Blue Lagoon, Asa took us to a little place in the middle of nowhere. I really mean nowhere, I have no idea how you remember how to get there. But there, in the middle of a barren landscape was a hole filled with flowing hot water. Very hot water - I quickly got too hot sat in it, which is impressive considering how cool the air was.

Hot springs in the middle of nowhere

Sitting in the hot springs

It was also a chance to drive through more of the countryside. Lots of people say Iceland looks like the moon (me included) but it really is strikingly unlike anywhere else I have been. Beautiful though.

After the hot springs we headed over to Gullfoss, a big - but very,very cold, waterfall. We would have stayed and looked longer but the spray from the falls chilled us all very quickly and despite being still very light it was getting on for 9pm so we headed back to Reykjavik. Instead of a restaurant it was a pleasant change to be entertained at Unnsteinn’s apartment. It felt lovely and very sociable, and it is nice to be able to relax.

Chilly Gullfoss

Now - back the competition. What I really liked is that each day started with a “guinea pig” to help callibrate the judges. Sonja Grant kicked things off with a Christmas theme, and on successive days we had a gay theme and an 80s theme. Competition is still fun in Iceland!

Christmas!

Gay!

80’s !

After the latte art competition (congrats to Jonina!) the 12 semifinalists were whittled down to 6 for the finals. Congrats to Palmar on winning the championship, he really stepped it up between semis and finals, and also congrats to Harpa who had given a great performance in the semis and picked up the best espresso, best capp and best signature drink. I had a lot of fun judging, as did Anette, and it was great to see lots of people again. If we hadn’t been traveling and working so much then perhaps we would have had the stamina to keep up with the locals on the last night but Anette and I gave in a few good hours before the rest.

I hope to go back, I really liked Iceland and thanks again to everyone who hosted us and made us feel very welcome.

But tomorrow it is back on a plane and off to SCAA. The next posts will all be here.

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Fear of Dilution

This is something that I think we all agree on at Square Mile HQ - a little dilution is not a bad thing.

As coffee is forced onwards in an online game of one-upmanship it seems shots have been getting shorter and shorter. No doubt the very visual medium of the internet means we are more terrified than ever of even the vaguest signs of blonding.

A paler pour does not equal bad taste, it just means that there are less coffee solubles in that pour.

From the colour we can not gauge the quality of those solubles. Empirical evidence certainly suggests that the longer the paler pour continues the more increased the bitterness in the cup. However for me it is all about balance I struggle to find balance in super short shots. Even from a technical standpoint I struggle to see how a complete extraction of all the goodness the coffee has to offer can be done with such a small amount of liquid. (Even though, as Andy Schecter points out here, more energy is being spent in the cake in these type of shots)

The constant chase for the heavier bodied, “sweeter” shot sometimes makes me sad as I wonder how many good flavours and desirable aspects of the coffee get knocked out with the spent puck.

This shot may be blonding to some people but it still tasted good

The rapidly disappearing single espresso

This one also turns me a bit ranty I am afraid. Maybe it is the bigger, better, harder, stronger thing but in many places around the world when you order an espresso you get a double. Whether the volume is 30ml, 45ml or 60ml this is irrelevant. I like coffee, I like drinking espresso and I like tasting different things. Whilst I may worry about coming across as the curmudgeonly Italian we specialty people all complain about who gets angry about our excessive dosing of coffee, I can’t help but agree that too much caffeine really limits my ability to enjoy my coffee. I really like a single espresso I think one of the most attractive things about great espresso in Scandanavia is that they are all just as hardcore about the quality but don’t feel the pressure of the big drinks to need every espresso brewed to be a double.

This isn’t really a rant about the single basket. I know a lot of people lament its rapid disappearance and I know it is a damn finicky thing to work with. That said one of my most viewed is this one - a single basket naked pour:

Naked single basket

How to enjoy espresso

This one is less rant and a bit more fun I guess. Tasting shots you brew, or shots you are assessing is rarely, if ever, fun. Inspecting the shot in minute detail with your tongue and olfactory system you quickly find the flaws - a touch of astringency, or a hint of underextraction or maybe the shot shows itself a little overextracted in the finish. It is easy to demolish just about any shot (ask a competition judge if you don’t believe me!) but it is often very difficult to enjoy it.

A friend of mine once told me that a different part of your brain assesses things than makes hedonic decisions¹. One part of your brain decides if it like, and the other part analyzes it. One part tends to dominate (the mean, cynical part going by personal experience). Recently I’ve taken to trying to trick myself. (I am aware I am starting to sound crazy now). It all started when we were pulling shots of Coffee Collective’s espresso that Stephen used to win the Irish Barista championship. He pulled me a great looking shot and just as I got it to my lips he asked a distracting question and instead of paying attention to the shot my mind was elsewhere. When my brain finally reconnected with my mouth all that was left was an overall awareness of deliciousness but little more. Suddenly I was like a normal customer, a person who drinks coffee for money because they like it. It had been a long time since I had thought like that, and I really liked it.

So now I will either drink espresso as a harsh judge, and look for every flaw or I will try not to pay attention - to distract myself so I can just switch that part of my brain off to enjoy an espresso now and again.

1. Though I confess, while I completely trust him - he is painfully smart - I never did go and find papers online to back this up

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