Archive for March, 2011

Do you want to sponsor the podcast?

Wednesday, March 23rd, 2011

The response to the last poll seems pretty favourable, so I am now officially looking for sponsorship. I am fickle about this stuff as a listener so I promise to make this as sympathetic as possible.

I should make clear that I’m not out to gouge or be cheeky with this – this isn’t how I want to make a living! If you are reading this and curious then drop an email to sponsor@ this domain name (always hard to hide email address from the evils of the web….). I will respond with a bit of info on the whole deal.

I’m going to look very silly if no one is interested!

Sponsorship and the podcast

Tuesday, March 22nd, 2011

I’ve written before about how, despite temptations, I’ve always wanted to keep this blog ad free. No google adwords, no sponsored ads. It is a personal website charting my own learning, and a place to share that. That isn’t going to change any time soon.

However, the podcast is another expense – if you want to do it properly – and the frightening number of downloads 1 mean that it is worth using a paid service. So I have a decision to make – do I try to get some sponsorship on board?

If it happened I would make sure it happened in a way that wouldn’t make me incredibly annoyed as a listener but I am curious about people’s opinions. If you’d be happy to click something on the poll below I’d be grateful. I don’t usually put decisions like this out there – but I feel it is ok to ask in this situation.

I am aware that no one has expressed any interest in sponsoring it, and me wanting it doesn’t mean I’d get it….

How do you feel about sponsorship of the podcast?

View Results

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Edit: If you are interested in sponsoring then drop a line to “sponsor@” at the above domain name.

Footnotes:
  1. It has already chewed through well over 1TB of data/bandwidth []

Episode Five – Peter Giuliano

Sunday, March 20th, 2011

I really hope people enjoy this one – because I really, really enjoyed the conversation I had with Peter.  We’d planned to talk about some fermentation experiments he’d been working on, but we cover a range of things. Listening back it seems like we planned this more than we had – this wasn’t the case, it was just a little serendipitous.

In this podcast:

- What is fermentation in coffee?
- What can a coffee being “washed” mean?
- Some experiments with fermentation
- Peter’s favourite coffee books
- Variety Vs Varietal

There is more stuff in there too. I think it is a really helpful listen if you want to better understand this incredibly important part of the process. I just couldn’t chop this one down – so if you hate the longer podcasts I’m (sort of) sorry!

You can do stuff like subscribe or leave some sort of rating or comment on iTunes here, or you can subscribe to the podcast feed here.

Feedback always welcome – really hope people enjoy this one.

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Thinking about barista training

Thursday, March 17th, 2011

Following on the from the discussion with Mike in the podcast, I wanted to write something about barista training and how we (as an industry) approach it.

I want to  briefly look at some established models and see how they could apply to developing skills in a bar environment. There can be doubt that we could do training better. It is such a high priority for the industry, that I am surprised it hasn’t been looked at more. A lot of the time we look to those who can do – those who have achieved some measure of success and have demonstrated skill to do our training. A typical example might be a barista champion. The concern is that just because they can make great coffee doesn’t mean a thing about their ability to teach others to do the same.

Like many other people who train others regularly I’ve mostly learned through trial and error. This involved, unfortunately, me being bad at it quite often. I needed to make mistakes to work out what worked and what didn’t. While I had an incredibly supportive employer I just didn’t know where to look or who to talk to on the subject.

The core ideas of what I teach haven’t really changed a lot, though have obviously become more nuanced. A lot of training I do is wholesale training that is a fairly short, and intense session. How to make these more effective is perhaps out of the scope of this post. Instead I want to look at training programs, perhaps as ones that exist in house for a cafe to get a new hire up to standard.

To start with I want to look at the Dreyfus model of skill acquisition. This is based on a paper submitted by brothers Hubert and Stewart Dreyfus in 1980 (and it available as a pdf here.). It documents the five stages of learning a particular skill. By looking at these, and how they might apply to coffee, we may be able to make our training more effective.

I’m going to look at the stages and briefly discuss them in relevance to coffee. I’ve used Michael Eraut’s summary for each level:

Beginner

- rigid adherence to taught rules or plans
- no exercise of “discretionary judgment”

I don’t think it is fair to think of rules and plans as brewing recipes, but more of the actions involved to prepare coffee in a basic way. This is where most baristas (globally) are – they can grind coffee, put some in a portafilter, put in it a machine and brew. This is repeated regardless of how the coffee brews. The result is, as we all know, consistently awful coffee.

Advanced Beginner

- limited “situational perception”
- all aspects of work treated separately with equal importance

This would probably apply to baristas who have been making terrible coffee for a while, but still lack training and development. Diagnosis of bad shots often flawed due to a lack of understanding of the process. (Example would be someone presuming a shot ran too slow because they tamped too hard) This could also be a barista who has been well trained, but has yet to get to grips with exactly how each of the brew parameters influence a shot.

Competent

- “coping with crowdedness” (multiple activities, accumulation of information)
- some perception of actions in relation to goals
- deliberate planning
- formulates routines

This reads very much like the description of a solid, well-trained barista. Good work flow, ability to deal with lots going on and working in a deliberate manner. This is the level I would want someone to achieve before they start working bar full-time. The challenge here is that learning to “cope with crowdedness” is difficult to do without being on a busy bar. Something to reflect on further down.

Proficient

- holistic view of situation
- prioritizes importance of aspects
- perceives deviations from the normal pattern
- employs maxims for guidance, with meanings that adapt to the situation at hand

At this point we have an effective barista, looking for deviations with brewing and understanding the necessary steps to correct issues (reducing dose when everything tasting sour/underextracted) – though not necessarily understanding why this works. Drinks produced would be consistently very good.

Expert

- transcends reliance on rules, guidelines, and maxims
- “intuitive grasp of situations based on deep, tacit understanding”
- has “vision of what is possible”
- uses “analytical approaches” in new situations or in case of problems

I don’t think this takes a great deal of explaining. Here we have someone who understands both coffee brewing, creating a menu of drinks and the ideas behind the recipes, and can build on their understanding to create new things and move us forward.

The uses for these kinds of models are varied. As a shop owner you could use it to assess your current staff against a fixed list of skills, to understand both their progress and your own success as a trainer. Knowing how far along someone is in their skill development means that you can train them to move to the next stage more effectively.

We tend to assess people based on their results rather than their methods. In situations where technology has moved on to help reduce inconsistency it may be possible for someone to serve good drinks without really understanding how they are doing it. The time we find out that their knowledge or understanding is limited is when the system breaks down – not an ideal way for a retail operation to discover this.

I’m not saying that I think this is the one way that we should assess baristas and their skill development. However, looking into the theory of learning was my introduction to the idea of tacit knowledge. The idea of tacit knowledge is, ironically, quite hard to explain. This is knowledge that is difficult to communicate by writing it down or verbalising. How to taste coffee is an obvious, and relevant, example of tacit knowledge. (Whereas knowing that Antigua is a growing region in Guatemala is knowledge that is easy to communicate).

I very rarely see much discussion about how we can train better. How do we take a barista to the point where they are capable and effective on a busy bar without going the sink or swim route of putting them there til they learn (or get fired, or quit)? How do we effectively communicate the necessary tacit knowledge in coffee – like effective tasting of espresso as a diagnostic skill?

By looking at education in a more structured way we can better share our own experiences and collectively get better at it.

Wikipedia is a pretty interesting place to get lost in all of this. The four stages of competence, or the Dunning-Kruger effect or many other topics within learning all feel compelling and important. (Read the Dunning-Kruger link, seriously…)

I often feel like I write these sorts of posts that ask lots of questions but don’t really suggest any sort of answer (all the while berating the industry for not offering answers or solutions).  Beyond looking outside our industry for help, I thought about a few suggestions that are quick and easy to implement:

- Get as much basic training as you can

I will never tire of seeing new people teaching familiar material. I’d happily go and watch many basic sessions because I’d be looking at what worked well, rather than to relearn the material. I’m constantly looking for better, more elegant and effective examples and explanations of coffee brewing. I’ll happily admit to stealing the best ones I use.

- Cross polinate your ideas

Talk to other barista trainers. Once the frustrations and moanings are out-of-the-way, talk about how you approach teaching. Obviously, much as different people learn in different ways, different people teach in different ways. However, there might be a structure in place or a narrative that you can refine. Chatting with Mike Phillips of the phone (though some of it didn’t make the final cut) was informative and useful for me.

I’d be interested if people have any recommended reading material on training – on skill development, learning process etc.  Link us up!

I’m interested to hear more about other people’s ideas on this one. Leave a comment, write a blog post and post a link, anything! I’d love to hear from you.

Episode Four – Mike Phillips

Sunday, March 13th, 2011

Very pleased I could grab Mike for a little while to have a chat about stuff. I’ll confess that I decided to edit this one down quite a bit. I said from the beginning that I wanted these to be about 30 minutes, and I want to stick to that.

In this episode:

- What he’s been up to this year
- Barista training
- Arguing about espresso brewing
- Just a little bit on barista competition

Things that didn’t make the cut:

- Mike and I discussing our mixture of proud and shame at owning these.
- Mike had a great line, in amongst the shoe shopping, that I wish I could have kept in (and still had it make sense.) He said we’re often “making coffee for ourselves” as an industry. Perhaps one for another time…

I hope you enjoy this one. The next one is going to be on aspects of producing coffee and should be really interesting too.

You can subscribe (or leave a review) in iTunes here, and the podcast feed is here. As I say – I’m open to suggestions and feedback!

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Restaurant Coffee

Tuesday, March 8th, 2011

I don’t usually post much work related stuff on here, but taking this photo it struck how ludicrously easy it can be to do a great coffee service in a restaurant. This photo was taken in a restaurant in London called Trinity. Trinity is a small restaurant in South West London, in a fairly residential neighbourhood. A few months ago they took out their espresso machine and replaced it with brewed coffee.

Looking at the photo is seems almost ridiculous. They have a great equipment setup there, and it cost a lot less than even a cheap 2 group. It also takes up a lot less space. They offer different, contrasting coffees. The staff are passionate and informed about the product. 1 They consistently serve really, really tasty coffee. People like really, really tasty coffee.

This doesn’t mean it has been easy. People still come to restaurants expecting to end a meal with an espresso. I think it takes some bravery for a restaurant to admit that espresso is incredibly difficult to do, and instead choose to do something of which they can be proud every time it is served. Inevitably success here comes down to service more than it does product, and I was really impressed by how thought out their approach was.

This isn’t new globally – but it is new to London. There are restaurants out there that are willing to invest in staff, equipment and training. There are many more restaurants knowingly serving an item on their menu that isn’t very good. In fact they know it is pretty bad. Many are too scared to make the change – I hope Trinity pave the way for others to follow. As a consumer and as a coffee professional I’d love to see more great coffee coming out of restaurants.

Footnotes:
  1. Doing staff training here is so much fun. We brew coffee, talk about it, argue preference and I answer lots of questions. I love it! That and the technical side of the training is easy to do, and the staff remember everything and just do a good job. The same is sadly not true of espresso training. []

Episode Three – Colin Harmon

Sunday, March 6th, 2011

I’m really proud of this particular episode, which actually seems a bit wrong considering Colin is the one saying all the interesting stuff. I think there is some incredibly important stuff covered in this, for baristas and for business owners.

Things we talk about:

- A great way to think about quality, and quality control
- A definition of innovation in coffee
- Tasting Vs Drinking and menus
- Service and how to treat VIPs
- Coffee’s best kept secret

I don’t want to present it like Colin is calling out the industry, but he does make some excellent points concerning where we’re falling down. In summary – well worth 30 minutes of your time!

I mentioned I’d put a couple of photos of the 3FE bar up and here they are: Photo 1 & Photo 2 (They’re quite big so apologies for slow loading)

Subscribe in iTunes if you’d like (rate if your feeling terribly kind!) and you can subscribe to the podcast feed here too.

I’m sure I can drag Colin along if anyone has any questions or comments.

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