Archive for February, 2010

Who is to blame?

Wednesday, February 24th, 2010

You drink a nice brewed cup of coffee from a hypothetical farm in El Salvador.  It is incredibly delicious.  The cup is light and juicy, but still very sweet.  There are notes of cherry and caramel and acidity is reminiscent of a crisp apple.  We celebrate this coffee, perhaps we bid a lot money for it at an auction, and are excited to roast it and retail it.

We then brew the same coffee in an espresso machine.  It doesn’t taste good.  People say it lacks body, isn’t complex enough, has too much acidity.  People say it is one dimensional.  We roast it darker than before, though hopefully not a lot.  We mute and soften the acidity, try and keep the sweetness.  We burn away some of what we loved in the hope that it will be a better espresso. Even now we don’t enjoy the coffee as much.  People still complain that it isn’t complex enough, isn’t complete enough.

“This coffee isn’t good enough to be a single origin espresso.”

We blame the same coffee that we once celebrated.  This doesn’t make sense.  If the job of a brewer is to translate what is great in the coffee down into the cup why aren’t we pointing our fingers at the espresso machine?  If the job of the barista is to use tools to translate what is great in the coffee down into the cup why aren’t we ashamed of our failings?

Thresholds of deliciousness

Tuesday, February 23rd, 2010

I’ve been thinking more and more about the tiers of tastiness when it comes to not only coffee, but any food or drink.  I think this was probably triggered by the whole aerating thing.

Having tasted coffee that had been aerated, as well as coffee brewed with aerated water, against a standard brew there had been a noticeable difference: an improvement.  Surely, then, this would be something to do in a cafe setting?  If it is going to improve the experience for the consumer, then one would be foolish not to, right? (more…)

Aida’s Grand Reserve

Thursday, February 18th, 2010

I am very much aware that promoting my own products or business on a personal blog very quickly spends any currency of goodwill that I might have built up.

There are, however, rare instances where I think it is entirely worth it and this is one of them. There is more information about the coffee on the product page, but we want to keep up the spirit of generosity of people like Aida Batlle and Gwilym and we want to raise as much money as we can.

You can read more about this coffee and what we are doing here. I hope you’ll consider buying a bag.

An experiment with grind size

Friday, February 12th, 2010

My experience with the ExtractMojo has so far resulted in one recurring realisation:  I often wasn’t grinding finely enough.  The purpose of this isn’t to rehash the whole underextracted thing.  More a simple experiment in terms of people’s preferences.

Accurately communicating grind size remains near impossible.  We can say coarse, very coarse or fine or whatever, but it is still a pretty bad communicator when you are stood in front of a grinder that you don’t know.

If people are up for it then I’d like to try an experiment.  Pick a method that you know well.  Record how you are currently setting your grinder for your desired grind size.  Each time you brew it, keep everything the same (brew temp, water volume and steep time if applicable) but go a touch finer.  Keep going until you hit the wall of bitterness.  You’ll know it when you taste it, when the cup falls to pieces in a bitter finish.  Come back a touch coarser, and try a side by side brew of this grind Vs your original grind.  Which is better? Why?

I hope a few people will try this – it would be really interesting.  I am interested because if someone asked me the ideal grind size for the aeropress, for example, then I’d say to keep the steep time the same and bring the grind as fine as you can before it starts tasting noticeably bitter.

(I am quite prepared for you to all come back and tell me I am an idiot)

The naturals debate

Wednesday, February 10th, 2010

You could say this debate is old news, but somehow it still seems to be rumbling on.

In the english speaking online coffee community it often seems a bit like Intelligentsia Vs. Naturals-Lovers, and Geoff Watts great post on the Intelli website kicked off the debate again recently.1  To quote the relevant part:

Things I hope become historical footnotes:

The near-fanatical obsession with dry-processed coffees. Increased risk for the farmer + significant loss of varietal/terroir nuance in the cup + likelihood of current trend reversing at some point = probably not the kind of coffee we want to promote.

(more…)

Footnotes:
  1. I kind of hope that a few people at Intelli secretly have a stash at home, of illicit dry process coffee – hidden from the world in shame. []

Tick, tick, tick….. boom.

Sunday, February 7th, 2010

The internet is quite talkative at the moment.  The coffee sliver of the internet anyway.  Lots of talk about seasonality, which is a good thing.

This does beg the question – how long is coffee good for?  Green coffee I mean – we’re still arguing about roasted coffee’s shelf life and a great deal more time and money has been spent on that topic in the last 100 years.

If anything, and we are getting into the realm of personal opinion here, green coffee is trickier because green coffees don’t age the same way.  Each lot is an individual little time bomb.  As much as we can look after it as well as we can in storage/in roasteries – we are still working with an individual fuse whose approximate length was determined before the coffee left the producing country. (more…)

Aerated coffee

Friday, February 5th, 2010

I’ve another post coming on why I blog, but this reason deserved a post in its own right.  A few days ago Shaun dropped me an e-mail about the Vinturi.  He’d played with it a little bit and thought it was interesting, and thought it might be something that would interest me. I admit I was curious – so I grabbed one from the UK website.  (Clicking through may help explain the image above!) (more…)