It seems Italy’s Agricultural Minister is worrying we are ruining espresso. In an article in today’s Telegraph Marco Lion is described as being worried that the “true identity of Italian coffee” could be lost because, he says, many cafes in Europe do not have the faintest idea how to make a good cup.
“There is only one true and authentic way to make a cappuccino, but for some reason there appear to be myriad types sold in cafes,”
I am not sure if the Gold Standard he recommends is the same thing the INEI are doing with their Espresso Certification but either way the idea, whilst noble, is a little flawed due to the ever frustrating human element.
I have to say I do like Mr Lion’s round about espresso description:
“aristocratic, elegant, noble, sensual, tasty, rigorous, clean, and sincere”.
He went on: “It must also be large, rich, vivid, valuable, fragrant, and progressive in the way that various flavours evolve in succession which delight those in search of new thrills and emotions.”
I am not sure I have had an aristocratic or rigorous espresso, but I think I’d quite like to.
I think this is part of a large debate about Italian espresso as everyday coffee vs. everyone else turning it into a gourmet/luxury product and thats ramifications on the culinary vs. retail style of brewing and selling coffee but I think this is best tackled somewhere else…