This is a letter of response to an article in the March 11 issue [about coffee beans roasted with sugar having more antioxidants.]

May I respond to Ms. Lopez´s article of March 11th? Ms. Lopez is a biologist in the University de Navara. The poorer Costa Ricans have a high rate of stomach cancer. The principal causitive factor is their consumption of coffee with sugar added and burned in the roasting process. This sugar is carbonized and thus becomes carcinogenic.

http://www.basqueresearch.com/berria_irakurri.asp?Berri_Kod=1661&hizk=I
2008/3/6

Torrefacto-roasted coffee has higher antioxidant properties, according to a dissertation defended at the University of Navarra
Torrefacto-roasted coffee has higher antioxidant properties than natural roast, according to the dissertation defended by a biologist of the University of Navarra, Isabel López Galilea. She has emphasized in her study that the addition of sugar during the roasting process increases the development of compounds with high antioxidant activity.

The researcher of Department of Food Sciences, Physiology and Toxicology of the University of Navarra analyzed eleven varieties of commercial coffee for her study, which was entitled “The Influence of Torrefacto Roasting on the Principal Components of Coffee and its Antioxidant and Pro-oxidant Capacity.”

As this scientist of the School of Sciences emphasized, numerous studies have shown the benefits of this drink. In particular, it is considered to be one of the best sources for antioxidants in the diet; these substances help to protect us against free radicals, which are a cause of premature aging and certain diseases. Coffee has an antioxidant capacity which is ten times higher than other drinks, such as red wine and tea.

The antioxidant capacity varies according to the preparation method
In order to carry out this research, Isabel López analyzed the coffee consumption habits of the inhabitants of Navarra, via 300 surveys. The results showed that Navarrans consume an average of 125 ml of coffee per day, with consumption slightly higher among women. In addition, they primarily consume ground coffee resulting from a mixture of natural roast and torrefacto-roast coffees, and the coffee is generally prepared with Italian or mocha coffee makers, followed by the filter, espresso and pump methods.

After confirming the increased antioxidant capacity of ground coffees roasted using the torrefacto process, she showed how these properties were present in the brewed coffee, which is the typical form of coffee consumption. In regard to the different preparation methods, she discovered that espresso machines produce a drink with the highest antioxidant capacity, more than coffee produced by the Italian, filter and pump methods. These properties may be due to the greater content of ‘brown compounds’ [compuestos pardos] developed during the roasting process, as well as to polyphenic compounds and caffeine.

In addition, she demonstrated that both the compounds contained in coffee as well as its aroma are affected by the type of roast and the system of extraction; nevertheless, this is a topic that will require further study in order to identify results under varying conditions. In her study, Dr. López identified 34 volatile compounds with high aromatic impact on coffee drinks, and new aromatic compounds were detected, such as octanol, which produces an intense orange aroma.

I recently visited the Dominican Republic and had coffee roasted like this. I brought some home and it’s sitting in my freezer now!

I really love this coffee and have some insight on how it is roasted in a small village (Travesia) above the city of Jarabacoa.

They use an a clay-oven top called a “fugòn.” It’s basically a clay base and sides with a small fire. The coffee and unrefined (natural cane — still brown) sugar added at the same time to a huge cast-iron pot. Its stirred with a wooden spoon and caramelized.

My theory is that this is done because the fugòn and wooden spoon can’t get the beans evenly roasted so the caramelization hides the roast.

I recently wrote about this experience on my blog: http://makingbananapancakes.com/

Unfortunately the 90% of the coffee that is consumed in Argentina is “torrado”. By torrado I mean, roasted with sugar (up to a 20% of the weigth of the batch).

This practice is not only used to disguise the bad quality coffees that are offered, but to adulterate the product (as you are paying 20% of sugar, that is 10 times cheaper, as coffee).

Don`t worry, if I could make it to Copenhagen, I`ll take you a couple of samples (obviously, if my luggage makes it too).

Best regards,

Federico Cabrera
Argentinian Competitor,
WBC 2007 (Tokyo, Japan).-